Drill bit stuck in the chuck: how to get it out

Why bits get stuck

A bit that catches in a hole stops suddenly while the motor keeps turning. That twist can lock the chuck jaws tighter than you could by hand. Ratcheting chucks on many drills also lock against loosening. Dust and grit in the jaws, or a bent bit, add to the problem.

On some chucks the jaws can also be wound fully closed with no bit inside, and then they feel seized. The same methods free them.

Safe ways to free it

Always start by removing the battery so the drill cannot start.

1. 1

   Remove the battery and put the gear selector in low gear.

2. 2

   Set the clutch to the drill setting so the spindle locks when you turn the chuck by hand, if your drill works this way.

3. 3

   Hold the rear part of the chuck, if it has one, or the drill body firmly.

4. 4

   Wrap the front sleeve with a rubber strap wrench, or a cloth and grip pliers, to avoid marking it.

5. 5

   Turn the sleeve anticlockwise as seen from the front with a short, firm twist.

6. 6

   If it still will not move, tap the sleeve lightly with a rubber mallet and try again.

Note:Do not run the motor in reverse while holding the chuck, and do not clamp the drill body in a vice by the plastic housing. If the chuck is cracked or will not release, take it to a service agent.

If the bit is broken or bent

A bit broken off level with the jaws can usually be released the same way, as long as the jaws turn. If the stub is wedged, open the jaws as far as they go and pull it out with pliers. A badly bent bit may need cutting short first so the jaws can turn freely.

If the chuck has been damaged, replacement chucks are available for many drills. The chuck is often held by a retaining screw inside that has a left hand thread. Check the manual or ask a service agent rather than guessing.

How to change bits so they do not jam

Fitting bits properly stops most of these problems, and it only takes a few seconds longer each time you change a bit.

• Open the jaws, insert the bit fully and centre it before tightening.
• On a single sleeve ratchet chuck, tighten until it clicks firmly.
• Keep the shank clean and free of grit.
• Use hex shank bits where you can; they cannot slip.
• Set a sensible clutch setting for screwdriving so the drill cannot overload the chuck.

See combi drill kits →

When the chuck slips instead

The opposite problem is a bit that spins in the jaws. That points to worn jaws, a round bit that is too smooth or not enough tightening. See drill chuck slipping for causes and fixes.

Brand specific procedures vary. DeWalt, Makita, Bosch and others publish manuals online; check yours before removing a chuck. For general use, how to use a combi drill covers chuck basics.

Preventing jams while drilling

Most jams start in the hole. Use sharp bits, drill a pilot hole for larger sizes, clear dust and swarf by backing the bit out regularly and ease off as you break through metal or timber. A side handle helps on bigger holes.

When drilling masonry, use hammer mode with masonry bits; see how to drill into brick and concrete. Clean the jaws now and then with a dry brush, and open and close them fully a few times so grit does not build up inside the chuck.

Frequently asked questions

Which way do I turn the chuck to loosen it? Anticlockwise when you look at the drill from the front.

Can I use the drill motor to loosen the chuck? Not by holding the chuck while running it. Remove the battery and loosen it by hand or with a strap wrench.

Why does my DeWalt chuck lock so tight? Many single sleeve chucks self tighten under load. A jammed bit can lock them very hard.

Can a stuck chuck be replaced? Yes on many drills. Follow the manual or use a service agent, as some chucks have a left hand retaining screw.