Circular saw vs reciprocating saw

What each saw is designed for

A circular saw spins a toothed disc, usually 165 mm to 190 mm on cordless models, against a flat base plate. The base rides on the work so the cut is straight and square, with depth and bevel adjustable. It cuts plywood, OSB, MDF, decking and joists cleanly. See how to use a circular saw.

A reciprocating saw pushes a straight blade back and forth. It cuts in any direction and reaches into tight spaces, through walls and between joists, but it does not cut straight or square without a lot of care.

Accuracy and finish

With a sharp blade and a guide rail or straight edge, a circular saw gives cuts that are ready to use. That is why it is the core tool for stud walls, sheds, floors and decks. Read how to cut straight with a circular saw for the setup.

A reciprocating saw cut will need tidying if it is visible. That is fine for cutting a joist end or a pipe that will be hidden, but not for a worktop or a shelf.

See cordless circular saws →

Demolition and awkward cuts

Removing a stud wall, cutting out a rotten window frame or chopping old pipework is where the reciprocating saw shines. It cuts through nails and screws with a bimetal blade, and you can push it into a gap to cut fixings. A circular saw would bind, kick back or hit metal in the same job.

In the garden a reciprocating saw with a pruning blade clears shrubs and branches quickly. A circular saw should never be used on branches or unsupported logs.

Note:Both saws can kick or snatch. Hold them with both hands, keep the cable or battery clear, wear eye protection and check for hidden cables and pipes before cutting into walls.

Safety differences

Circular saws carry a real risk of kickback when the kerf pinches the blade. Supporting the work properly avoids most of it; see circular saw kickback. Reciprocating saws tend to shake and jump if the shoe is not pressed against the work, which can cause the blade to snap.

For both, let the blade reach full speed before cutting and wait for it to stop before putting the saw down.

Which should you buy first?

If you plan to build a shed, lay decking, cut sheet goods or frame walls, buy a circular saw. If you are mainly stripping out, cutting pipes or pruning, buy a reciprocating saw. Many people on one battery platform add the second saw later as a bare tool, which keeps the cost down.

For curved cuts in sheet goods, neither is ideal; a jigsaw is the tool. For straight cuts in large sheets, a plunge saw on a rail beats both.

Blades for each saw

Circular saw blades are sized by diameter and bore, and the tooth count decides the finish: fewer teeth for fast rip cuts, more teeth for clean crosscuts in sheet goods. Fit only the size and bore your saw lists. See mitre and circular saw blades explained.

Reciprocating saw blades share a near universal shank and are sold by material: wood, wood with nails, metal and pruning. Longer blades reach further but flex more, so use the shortest blade that clears the work. Keep a few spares, as blades snap when the saw shoe is not held against the work.

Frequently asked questions

Can a reciprocating saw cut straight? Only roughly. Clamp a guide and use a long, stiff blade, but expect to tidy the cut.

Can a circular saw cut metal? Only with a blade and saw designed for metal. Standard wood blades must never be used on steel.

Which is better for decking? A circular saw or mitre saw. A reciprocating saw cuts too roughly for visible deck boards.

Is a reciprocating saw good for pruning? Yes, with a pruning blade, for branches you can hold safely at ground level.