Circular saw vs jigsaw: straight cuts or curves?

How each saw cuts

A circular saw spins a round blade, typically 165 to 190 mm, at several thousand rpm. The wide, rigid blade cuts fast and straight and stays square to the base, so edges are true. It cannot turn corners, and the depth is limited to about 55 to 66 mm for most hand held saws.

A jigsaw drives a narrow blade up and down, often with a pendulum action that adds a forward swing for faster cuts. The narrow blade can follow curves and start from a drilled hole for cut outs. It cuts much more slowly and the blade can bend in thick material, so the cut may drift off square.

Strengths and limits

The table summarises typical differences. Exact figures depend on the model.

Worked example: a kitchen

Fitting a kitchen involves cutting carcass panels, plinths and worktops to length, and cutting holes for a sink and a hob. Straight cuts on worktops and panels are best done with a circular saw or plunge saw on a guide, for a clean edge.

The sink and hob cut outs need a jigsaw: drill a starting hole inside each corner, then follow the template line with a fine laminate blade. Many fitters own both, with a plunge saw for straight cuts. See circular saw vs track saw.

Worked example: a deck

A deck is almost all straight cuts: joists, bearers, boards and fascias. A circular saw handles them quickly and trims board ends in place. A jigsaw only comes in for notches around posts or a curved edge.

If you are building a deck, buy a circular saw first. A mitre saw is also useful for repeated board cuts; see mitre saw vs circular saw.

Which to buy first

Buy a circular saw first if you build, deck, fence or cut lots of sheet material. Buy a jigsaw first if your jobs are smaller and shaped: shelves with curves, cut outs, trimming boards around pipes, kids' projects. Both are common on the same battery platform, so adding the second later is easy.

Compare circular saws in our cordless circular saw guide, and if clean straight sheet cuts matter, the plunge and track saw guide.

Note:Clamp the work, keep the cable or battery clear of the blade, let the blade stop before lifting the saw, and wear eye and ear protection. A circular saw can kick back if the blade pinches, so support both sides of the cut. Follow the manual and HSE guidance.

Cordless or corded?

Both saws are widely available cordless, which makes them easier to use outdoors and on ladders. A cordless circular saw draws a lot of current, so a 4 or 5 Ah battery gives far more cuts than a 2 Ah pack. A jigsaw is less demanding and runs well on smaller packs.

Corded saws still make sense in a workshop with a socket nearby, and they cost less for the same capacity. If you already own a battery platform, a bare cordless saw is usually the best value.

Blades make a big difference

Both saws are only as good as their blades. A 24 tooth circular saw blade cuts fast and rough; a 40 to 60 tooth blade gives a cleaner finish. Jigsaw blades come in wood, metal, laminate and down cutting types; using the right one reduces splintering and wandering.

Read mitre and circular saw blades explained for tooth counts and kerf.

Frequently asked questions

Can a jigsaw cut straight lines? Yes, with a clamped guide and a sharp, stiff blade, but slowly and with more risk of a slightly angled edge in thick timber.

Can a circular saw cut curves? No. Trying to steer a circular saw round a curve will bind the blade and can cause kickback.

Which is safer for a beginner? A jigsaw is generally more forgiving, as it is less prone to kickback. Any saw needs care, guards and eye protection.

Can a jigsaw cut a worktop? Yes, for cut outs, using a laminate blade. For the long straight cuts, use a circular or track saw on a guide.