Mitre saw vs circular saw for decking and flooring

What each saw does best

A mitre saw is a crosscutting machine. Set the angle once, and every cut comes out the same: square ends on decking, 45 degree corners on skirting, angled studs. It is quick, accurate and easy to use with a length stop. Its limit is capacity: it cannot cut a board wider than its stated cut width or rip along a length.

A circular saw goes to the work. It cuts sheets of ply, OSB and MDF, rips boards along their length, trims doors, cuts joists in place and handles timber far too wide for a mitre saw. Straight cuts need a guide or a steady hand, and repeated angled cuts are slower to set up.

Two saws compared

The table compares a compact sliding mitre saw with a cordless circular saw kit, using listing figures.

Compare cordless circular saws →

Worked example: building a deck

Decking needs joists cut to length, boards cut to length and the board ends trimmed square or at angles where the deck meets a wall. A mitre saw on a stand by the stack of boards makes the board cuts fast and identical, and handles joists up to its depth capacity.

A circular saw does all of that more slowly, but also trims the board ends in place along a chalk line once the boards are fixed, cuts larger posts and beams in two passes, and rips the last board to width. If you only buy one for a deck, a circular saw covers every cut. If you build decks often, use both.

Worked example: laying a floor

Laminate and engineered boards are mostly crosscut to length, with the occasional rip for the last row. A mitre saw makes clean, square crosscuts quickly, and a fine tooth blade reduces chipping. The rip for the final row needs a circular saw, track saw or table saw.

For solid boards and floor joists, a circular saw is also handy for cutting out sections of old boards. Many fitters use a mitre saw for lengths and a circular or plunge saw for rips.

Which to buy first

Buy a circular saw first if you work with sheet material, need to rip, or want one saw for building projects. Buy a mitre saw first if your work is mostly trim, skirting, flooring and repeated crosscuts. Add the other when a project calls for it.

Compare current saws in our mitre saw guide and cordless circular saw guide. For the mitre saw route, read what size mitre saw you need.

Note:Both saws can cause serious injury. Keep guards working, support the work so the offcut falls freely, keep hands clear of the blade path, and wear eye and ear protection. Follow the manual and HSE woodworking guidance.

Accuracy and finish

A mitre saw's fixed fence and detents make accurate angles easy, so joints close up neatly. A circular saw is only as straight as its guide; with a clamped straight edge or a guide rail it can be very accurate on long cuts.

Finish depends mostly on the blade. A fine tooth blade on either saw gives cleaner ends. See mitre and circular saw blades explained.

Frequently asked questions

Can a circular saw cut angles like a mitre saw? Yes, by tilting the base for bevels and using a speed square or protractor guide for mitres. It takes longer to set up each cut.

Is a mitre saw safer than a circular saw? Each has risks. A mitre saw holds the work against a fence, which many find more controlled, but hands can stray near the blade path. Follow the manual for either.

Can a mitre saw rip boards? No. Mitre saws crosscut only. Use a circular saw, track saw or table saw for rips.

Which is better for skirting boards? A mitre saw, because it cuts accurate repeatable mitres. See how to cut skirting board corners.