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Cordless drill not working: what to check

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In short

Start with the simple things: is the battery charged and fully clicked in, is the direction switch in the middle locked position, and has the drill cut out from overheating? Then clean the battery contacts and try another battery. If a known good battery does not help, the switch, motor or electronics may be at fault and a repair agent should check it.

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A cordless drill that stops working mid job, or will not start at all, often has a simple cause. This guide works through the checks in order, from battery and switches to overload protection and motor wear, and explains when to stop and get a repair. It applies to Makita, DeWalt, Ryobi, Bosch, Milwaukee and most other brands, though exact features vary.

Check the battery first

Most no start problems are battery problems. Check the charge gauge if the pack has one. Put it on the charger and note what the charger lights do. Then slide the battery firmly into the drill until it clicks; a pack that is not fully seated may give no power or cut in and out.

If you have a second battery, try it. If the drill works with the other pack, the problem is the first battery or its charge. See power tool charger lights flashing for what charger signals mean.

  1. 1

    Check the battery gauge or charge the pack.

  2. 2

    Remove and refit the battery until it clicks.

  3. 3

    Try a second, known good battery.

  4. 4

    Inspect contacts on drill and battery for dirt or damage.

Direction switch and trigger lock

Most drills lock the trigger when the forward and reverse switch is in the middle. If the trigger will not press, push the switch fully to one side. A switch stuck halfway can also stop the motor.

Some drills have electronic features such as a mode selector, speed setting or a lock out after a kickback event. Check the manual for any reset step, such as releasing the trigger fully.

Overheating and overload cut outs

Modern lithium tools protect the battery and motor. If the drill stops under heavy load, such as a large hole saw, it may have cut out to protect itself. Release the trigger, let the drill and battery cool, and try again with a lighter load or a lower gear. Many brushless drills, such as the Makita DHP483, list overload and temperature protection.

A pack that is very hot or very cold may also refuse to run until it returns to a normal temperature.

Clean the contacts

Dust, plaster and moisture on the battery terminals can cause poor contact. With the battery removed, blow out debris and wipe the contacts with a dry cloth. Do not use metal tools or abrasives on the terminals. Check for bent or burnt contacts; damage there needs a repair.

Brushes on older drills

Older brushed drills have carbon brushes that wear down. Symptoms include sparking, intermittent running or the drill stopping altogether. On some models the brushes are easy to replace through caps on the housing; on others the motor must be opened. Brushless drills have no brushes to replace.

Use the correct replacement part for your model, following the manual, or ask a service agent. Learn more in brushless vs brushed drills.

Signs you need a repair

Stop using the drill and get it checked if you notice burning smells, smoke, a battery that swells or gets hot on the charger, a crackling switch, or a motor that hums but does not turn. Lithium battery faults can be dangerous; do not try to open or repair a battery pack.

  • Burning smell or smoke from the motor or battery.
  • Swollen, cracked or leaking battery.
  • Drill works only when the trigger is held at an odd angle.
  • Chuck turns roughly or the gearbox grinds.

Repair or replace?

If the drill is in warranty, contact the maker or seller; many brands offer extended cover if you registered the tool. For older drills, compare repair cost with a new tool. Bare units are a cheap way to replace a drill if your batteries are fine. Our combi drill kit guide and DeWalt comparison list current options.

Note:Never open a lithium battery pack or use a damaged one. Store and charge batteries away from flammable materials, and dispose of faulty packs at a recycling point. For electrical faults inside the tool, use an authorised repair agent.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my drill stop when I drill large holes? It is probably the overload protection cutting in. Use gear 1, a sharp bit and steady pressure, and let it cool.

My Makita drill flashes but will not run. Why? Some Makita tools flash a light when the battery is low or overloaded. Check the manual for your model's signals, charge the pack and let the tool cool.

Can a battery look charged but still not work? Yes. A damaged cell can show charge but fail under load. Try another battery to confirm.

Is it worth repairing a cordless drill? If it is a good brushless drill and the fault is a switch or brushes, often yes. For cheap or very old drills, replacement may make more sense.

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