Combi drill vs drill driver: do you need the hammer?

The one difference: a hammer mode

Both tools have a keyless chuck, a numbered clutch ring for screw driving and a two speed gearbox. The combi drill adds a third position on the collar marked with a hammer symbol. In that mode a pair of ridged ratchet discs makes the chuck pulse forward and back as it spins, which helps a masonry bit chip into brick, block and mortar.

That hammer mechanism adds a little length and weight to the front of the drill. A drill driver leaves it out, so it can be shorter, lighter and slightly cheaper. Everything else, including torque, speeds and battery, is often shared between the two versions in a range.

Makita DHP483 and DDF485 side by side

The table uses listing figures for a Makita brushless combi drill and a compact brushless drill driver on the same 18 V LXT battery. Note how close they are apart from the hammer.

See all Makita LXT drills compared →

When you need a combi drill

In most UK homes the walls are brick, block or a mix, often under plaster. Hanging a shelf, a curtain pole, a mirror or a TV bracket usually means drilling a 5 to 8 mm hole into masonry for a wall plug. A combi drill with a sharp masonry bit does that well. Without a hammer mode, the same hole takes far longer, overheats the bit and can glaze the hole.

If you own an older house with soft red brick, a drill driver might scrape through, but hard engineering brick, concrete lintels and dense block need hammer action. For anything above about 10 mm in concrete, or lots of holes, look at an SDS drill instead. See SDS drill vs combi drill.

When a drill driver is the better buy

Kitchen and furniture fitters, joiners, electricians working in stud walls and anyone working mainly in timber can choose a drill driver. The shorter head fits inside cabinets and between joists, and the lighter weight is welcome overhead.

A drill driver also makes sense as a second drill alongside a combi drill or an SDS drill, so you can keep a pilot bit in one and a driver bit in the other. If you already own a twin pack with a combi, a compact drill driver is a good third tool.

• Choose a combi drill if you will drill brick, block or mortar even occasionally.
• Choose a drill driver if you work in timber, sheet materials, plasterboard and metal only.
• Choose both if you fit kitchens or do a lot of repeated pilot and drive work.

Buying tips

Check the model code to see which version a listing is. DeWalt hammer models usually have a hammer icon on the collar, Makita uses DHP for combis and DDF for drill drivers, and Bosch adds an S in GSB for the hammer version against GSR for the driver. Then check whether the listing is a bare unit or a kit, and what battery and charger it includes.

Our compact combi drill guide and home use guide show what is in each box.

Note:Before drilling any wall, check for hidden cables and pipes with a detector and avoid the zones directly above, below and beside sockets and switches. Wear eye protection and follow the drill's manual.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a combi drill as a normal drill? Yes. Turn the collar to the drill symbol for wood and metal, or to a clutch number for screws. The hammer only works when you select it.

Does hammer mode damage wood or tiles? It can. Hammer mode can split timber and crack ceramic tiles. Drill tiles in drill mode with a tile bit, then switch to hammer only once you reach the masonry behind.

Is a drill driver more powerful? Not necessarily. Torque depends on the model. In some ranges the drill driver and combi drill share the same motor and torque figure.

Can a drill driver drill concrete? Only very small holes, slowly. Without a hammer action it struggles, and the bit wears quickly. Use a combi drill or an SDS drill for concrete.