# How to use a circular saw Source: https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/how-to-use-a-circular-saw Published: 2026-10-12 Publisher: Drill and Bit **In short:** Set the blade depth about 5 mm below the material, support the board so the offcut falls free without pinching, line up the notch on the base with your mark, let the saw reach full speed before touching the wood, and push steadily without twisting. Keep both hands on the saw, stand to one side, and wear eye and ear protection. A circular saw is one of the most useful tools for decking, sheds, stud work and sheet material, and one of the most respected for good reason. Used properly it is fast and accurate. This guide covers setting up, supporting the work, making the cut and the habits that keep kickback at bay. ## Before you cut Remove the battery or unplug the saw. Check the blade is sharp, suited to the job and fitted with the teeth pointing in the direction shown on the guard. Check the lower guard swings freely and snaps back. Make sure the battery is charged or the cable will reach without crossing the cut line. - Sharp blade, correct way round, tight. - Lower guard moves freely and returns. - Eye and ear protection, dust mask for MDF. - Clamps and supports ready. - Cut line marked clearly. ## Set the blade depth Unlock the depth lever and set the blade so it projects about 5 mm, roughly one tooth, below the material. A shallow setting reduces kickback risk and gives a cleaner cut. For bevel cuts, set the bevel angle and lock it, then recheck the depth. Most 165 mm saws cut about 55 to 57 mm deep; 184 and 190 mm saws reach around 60 to 66 mm. The Milwaukee M18 CCS55 lists 66 mm at 90 degrees. ## Support the work properly Most kickback starts when the cut closes and pinches the blade. Support the board on both sides of the cut so neither side sags into the blade. For sheet material, lay it on a sheet of rigid foam insulation or several battens so both pieces stay supported. Never support the offcut by hand. Clamp the work so both hands stay on the saw and nothing shifts mid cut. ## Making the cut Line up the notch or line guide on the front of the base with your mark. Rest the front of the base on the work, with the blade clear of the edge. Pull the trigger, let the blade reach full speed, then push steadily forward. Keep the base flat and the saw moving in a straight line. 1. Set depth and bevel, then lock. 2. Support and clamp the work. 3. Line up the base notch with the mark. 4. Start the saw clear of the wood. 5. Push steadily, base flat, no twisting. 6. Release the trigger and let the blade stop before lifting. ## Avoiding kickback Kickback is when the blade binds and the saw jumps back towards you. Reduce the risk by keeping the blade sharp, supporting the work, setting a shallow depth, never twisting the saw in the cut and standing to one side of the blade line. If the saw slows or binds, release the trigger and hold it still until the blade stops, then find the cause. See [circular saw binding and burning](https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/circular-saw-binding-and-burning). ## Getting straight cuts Follow a clamped straight edge or the supplied parallel guide for long straight cuts. For best results in sheet material, use a guide rail compatible saw or a plunge saw. Full method in [how to cut straight with a circular saw](https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/how-to-cut-straight-with-a-circular-saw). ## Cutting sheet material and decking For ply, OSB and MDF, lay the sheet on a sacrificial support so both sides are held, set the depth just through the sheet plus a few millimetres, and cut with the good face down. Use a 40 to 48 tooth blade for a cleaner edge. For decking boards, cut the ends square on a mitre saw or with a speed square as a guide. Once boards are fixed, you can trim the ends in place along a chalk line, with the blade set just deeper than the board. ## Choosing a saw For decking and stud work a 165 to 190 mm cordless saw works well. An electric brake stops the blade quickly. If you already own batteries, a bare unit is cheapest. Compare in our [cordless circular saw guide](https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-cordless-circular-saws), or read [mitre saw vs circular saw](https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/mitre-saw-vs-circular-saw). Note: Circular saws can cause serious injury. Keep guards working, support the work so the kerf does not close, keep both hands on the saw, stand to one side of the blade line, and wear eye and ear protection. Follow the manual and HSE woodworking guidance. ## Frequently asked questions **Which side of the line should I cut?** Cut on the waste side so the blade's kerf does not shorten your piece. **Should the good side face up or down?** Down for a hand held circular saw, because the teeth cut upwards and splinter the top face. **How do I cut a bevel?** Unlock the bevel adjustment, set the angle on the scale, lock it and recheck the depth. **Can I cut plywood with the supplied blade?** Yes, but a 40 to 48 tooth blade gives a cleaner edge. ## Buying guides on this topic - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-cordless-circular-saws - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-plunge-track-saws - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-power-tool-kits ## Sources - [HSE: woodworking machinery](https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/)