# Circular saw binding or burning the wood: fixes Source: https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/circular-saw-binding-and-burning Published: 2026-10-12 Publisher: Drill and Bit **In short:** Burning and binding usually come from a blunt, dirty or wrong blade, a cut that closes and pinches the blade because the work is badly supported, pushing too fast or twisting the saw, or a base plate that is not parallel to the blade. Clean or replace the blade, support both sides of the cut, feed steadily and check the base alignment. A circular saw that leaves scorch marks, slows down, screeches or tries to kick back is telling you something is wrong. Binding is also the main cause of kickback, so it is worth fixing promptly. This guide works through the causes from most to least common, and what to do about each. ## Stop safely first If the saw binds mid cut, release the trigger and hold the saw still until the blade stops completely. Do not pull it backwards while the blade is turning, which can cause kickback. Once stopped, back the saw out, or open the kerf with a wedge, and remove the battery before inspecting. ## Blade problems A blunt blade rubs instead of cutting, generating heat that burns the wood and makes the motor work harder. Resin and pitch build up on the blade sides and teeth have the same effect. A blade with too many teeth for a fast rip also clogs and burns. Clean the blade with a resin remover and inspect the teeth. If they are chipped or rounded, have the blade sharpened or replace it. For ripping thick timber, use a blade with fewer teeth. See [saw blades explained](https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/mitre-saw-blades-explained). - Burn marks on both sides of the cut: blunt or dirty blade. - Burning only in rips: too many teeth or slow feed. - Blade wobbles or rings: bent or damaged blade, replace it. ## The kerf closing on the blade When a board is supported only at its ends, the cut closes as you go and pinches the blade. The same happens when internal stress in timber, common in wet or reclaimed wood, makes the kerf close behind the blade. The saw slows, burns, and may kick back. Support the work on both sides of the cut so neither side drops. For long rips, drive a small wedge into the kerf behind the saw to keep it open. A riving knife, where fitted, helps keep the kerf open. 1. Support the board on both sides of the line. 2. Clamp it so it cannot move. 3. For long rips, wedge the kerf open behind the saw. 4. Set the depth about 5 mm below the material. ## Technique Twisting the saw to follow a wandering line makes the blade rub on the sides of the kerf. Pushing too fast overloads the motor; pushing too slowly lets the blade rub and burn. Keep the base flat, the saw straight and the feed steady. Use a clamped guide for straight cuts; see [how to cut straight with a circular saw](https://drillandbit.co.uk/blog/how-to-cut-straight-with-a-circular-saw). ## Base plate alignment If the base plate is not parallel to the blade, the back of the blade rubs on one side of the kerf, burning that edge and tending to bind. Check by measuring from the base edge to a tooth at the front of the blade, then rotate the blade so the same tooth is at the back and measure again. The readings should match. Some saws have an adjustment for this; check the manual. A bent base, often from a drop, may need replacing by a service agent. Also check the bevel is truly at 0 when you think it is. ## Battery and motor On cordless saws, a nearly flat or cold battery can let the blade slow under load, which makes burning more likely. Fit a charged pack at room temperature. Some saws, such as the Makita DHS660, adjust speed automatically under load. Larger packs handle heavy cuts better. ## Choosing a better setup If you rip a lot of sheet material, a plunge saw on a rail or a table saw with a riving knife gives cleaner, safer cuts. Compare options in our [plunge and track saw guide](https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-plunge-track-saws), [table saw guide](https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-table-saws) and [cordless circular saw guide](https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-cordless-circular-saws). Note: Binding is the main cause of kickback. Keep both hands on the saw, stand to one side of the blade line, support the work properly and never remove the guard. Remove the battery before inspecting the blade. Wear eye and ear protection and follow the manual. ## Frequently asked questions **Why does my circular saw stop in the middle of a cut?** The blade is probably binding, or the battery is low or the overload protection has cut in. Support the work, use a sharp blade and fit a charged pack. **Is burning bad for the saw?** It means the motor is working hard and the blade is overheating, which shortens the life of both. Fix the cause. **Why does my saw burn plywood but not timber?** Plywood glue dulls blades and fine dust clogs them. Use a sharp blade with more teeth and clean it often. **Can a riving knife stop binding?** It helps keep the kerf open on saws that have one, but correct support is still essential. ## Buying guides on this topic - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-cordless-circular-saws - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-plunge-track-saws - https://drillandbit.co.uk/best/best-table-saws ## Sources - [HSE: woodworking machinery](https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/)